LA In Season: Citrus

Come December, farmers market stalls are bursting with the oranges, lemons, limes and grapefruits of the season. Some of Los Angeles’ best-loved chefs share their favorite winter citrus preparations.
Photo by Ekaterina Molchanova/iStockPhoto

By Katherine Kims



“I love blood oranges just the way they are—nothing but stained finger tips and a pile of peels—but if there is one left come dinner or lunch, I make a blood orange dressing: two tablespoons blood orange juice, two tablespoons fruity olive oil, a pinch of salt, and one clove of grated garlic. Then I gently toss the dressing with purple kale—massage with oil and salt gently—and blood orange, which I peel, slice in half, and cut into super-thin half-moons. From here, I toss in whatever I find in the fridge: some pomegranate seeds with crumbled feta cheese, goat cheese, or chunks of sharp Parmesan cheese, maybe some cooked black quinoa or lentils.”



“Moro, Sicilian blood oranges, which have a deeper flavor, are incredible. A fun preparation is a soufflé: Take the tops off, scrape out the insides, squeeze the juice into the soufflé batter, and fold in some blood orange segments. Bake inside the whole orange skin, then dust with powdered sugar. It tastes just like a creamsicle.”



“Strawberry jam can get boring, so I often gravitate to citrus jams like orange marmalade. I like using Seville oranges because they have less pith, and are more bitter and hardier, so they retain their structure with more citrus peel in their own syrup. At Cosa Buona, we make bitter orange marmalade for our cannoli, which I love in the filling or on bread with ricotta or butter.”