By Ray Rogers
Savannah lives up to its reputation: You’ll find Southern charm all over the oldest city in Georgia, founded in 1733. Rife with cobblestone streets, iron-gated mansions and eccentric characters, the city has inspired writers and creators for ages. Even in our hotel, the exquisite Perry Lane Hotel, there were elements of surprise and delight around every corner. Case in point: the photograph of a bullfrog wearing a tiara in the bathroom, which elicited a smile every time I caught a glimpse of it while washing my hands. Then there were the servers doling out trays of ice cream sandwiches and mimosas as you lounge poolside on the rooftop. Not to mention the way our endearing front desk attendant named Itu cheered “absolutely!” no matter the request. We could’ve lingered all weekend long at this magnificent, dog-friendly property—and some mornings we did, sleeping in and savoring its luxurious amenities (the Byredo moisturizer was so fabulous I ordered a bottle the second I got home) and wonderful quirkiness.
The hotel offers bikes to tool around town—and free car service that will take you within the historic district—but we were happy to amble around by foot, soaking up the laid-back beauty of its famed squares (23 in all, across 1 square mile in downtown), and marvel at the Spanish moss swaying in the breeze off the impressive old oak trees.
You can certainly overindulge in this city where cheese grits and greasy spoon diners are revered, but health-conscious travelers will also find wellness ways throughout. (And obligatory strolls around the gorgeous fountain at Forsyth Park will help offset the caloric intake.) Reserve in advance for fine dining destinations such as Husk Savannah, located in what’s said to be a haunted house and serving elevated, farm-to-table takes on Southern fare, and The Grey, helmed by James Beard Award-winning chef Mashama Bailey. Emporium Kitchen & Wine Market at the Perry Lane also had stellar food and service, and The Wayward, the hotel’s chic cocktail bar (boasting a holiday-themed cocktail menu this winter), was just voted one of the country’s Top 10 hotel bars.
Given that SCAD, the Savannah College of Art and Design, is located here, art blooms around town. The SCAD Museum hosted a knockout multicultural lineup in its many galleries the weekend we visited. There’s also the Jepson Center for the Arts, and for history buffs, the Owens-Thomas House & Slave Quarters. Surprisingly for a city that boasts one of the most revered art schools in the South, there wasn’t exactly a robust gallery scene. But we were thrilled to find a show called Water Ways, Katherine Sandoz’s beautiful abstract lotus paintings at Laney Contemporary art gallery, a short drive or Uber ride on the outskirts of town.
You could spend an entire weekend just appreciating Savannah’s famous squares, but you’d be missing out on its other charms. Venture out a bit to explore its more fringe neighborhoods. The Plant Riverside District, rife with shops and eateries, has live music every night of the week. The Starland District, with its little shops of knickknacks and groovy T-shirts, and outdoor food stalls, felt reminiscent of Austin’s “keep it weird” ethos. It also had a focus on sustainability—we were happy to stumble upon the Little Foot Company shop, brimming with novel ways to cut down one’s carbon footprint (give the gift of sustainability this holiday with refillable containers and more).
Farther afield in the Lowcountry (just 20 minutes from downtown), you’ll find the Moon River District, where you can explore a barrier island and immerse in the Gullah-Geechee culture. Or head to Wormsloe State Historic Site to view the oldest standing structure in Savannah, the Colonial estate of Noble Jones, who arrived in 1733 with the first group of settlers from England. There’s a lot to see here if you put in the effort. We didn’t stay long enough to really discover the city’s storied underbelly a la Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil—just another reason to come back and explore more.