by Peter Som
When winter alights, the creature comforts of home—that inner sanctum of family and friends—is where I turn. And usually for me, it’s in the kitchen. With the crackle of the fireplace, a cozy sweater and a glass of wine in hand, all the cares of the crazy world outside feel far away. And truly nothing can provide that comfort like pasta. The mighty noodle—that pantry stalwart—only waiting for hot water and an excellent sauce to coax it to tender al dente life. The possibilities are endless, aren’t they? Pasta is the supreme blank canvas for one’s imagination—even a glug of olive oil and some chile flakes can make for a simply delicious meal. Whether the ropey perfection of bucatini or the pert ridges of radiatori, all will catch the sauce and win your heart. Here are three pasta dishes to soothe, savor and enjoy.
Big Green Pasta
The sauce is no-cook and is so bright, creamy and herbaceous you’d never know it was actually healthy. Spinach and basil along with avocado (that’s where the creaminess comes in, of course) along with a few other pantry staples make some serious magic. And even better, it’s done in the time it takes for you to cook the noodles. It’s truly a brilliant green bowl of goodness to brighten up any day.
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound dry pasta
½ cup basil leaves, packed, plus more leaves for garnish
1 cup baby spinach
1 lemon, zested and juiced
1 garlic clove
1 large ripe avocado, peeled and pitted
½ cup freshly grated pecorino
¼ cup extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for finishing
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
Ricotta, for serving
2 to 3 tablespoons toasted pine nuts, for garnish
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Cook pasta in well-salted water until al dente and reserve 1 cup of pasta water.
2. While the pasta is cooking, make the sauce. In a food processor or blender, add basil leaves, baby spinach, lemon juice, garlic, avocado, pecorino, olive oil and ½ cup of water. Season with about ¼ teaspoon of kosher salt and a few grinds of black pepper, then blend until smooth. Add a splash more water as needed to loosen the sauce (you’ll be adding pasta water in a bit, so don’t go crazy).
3. Drain the pasta and return it to the pot. Stir in the sauce along with the pasta water, ¼ cup at a time, until the sauce coats the noodles.
4. Transfer to a serving platter or individual bowls, dollop with ricotta, finish with a glug of olive oil, lemon zest and pine nuts and serve immediately.
Fast Fast Dan Dan Noodles
Spicy, numbing, but still nuanced, this Sichuan classic consists of noodles enrobed in spicy minced pork with a zippy sauce that ping-pongs between spicy, sweet and tangy—and always lands on just plain delicious. This take comes together in the time it takes to make the noodles with a few shortcuts (like using jarred chile crisp—I use Fly by Jing). It’s also infinitely adaptable, too: Add baby spinach or bok choy, or even swap out the ground pork for extra-firm tofu for a vegetarian take.
Note: I’ve used readily available spaghetti, but if you have access to Chinese noodles (lo mein), definitely use those and cook according to the package instructions.
SERVES 4
INGREDIENTS:
1 pound dry spaghetti
2 teaspoons sugar
½ teaspoon Chinese five spice powder
2 teaspoons mirin
2 teaspoons hoisin sauce
1 teaspoon toasted sesame oil
2 tablespoons soy sauce
3 tablespoons tahini or smooth peanut butter
2 teaspoons vegetable oil
12 ounces ground pork
¼ cup chile crisp
3 scallions, thinly sliced on a steep bias (green parts only), plus extra for garnish
¼ cup roughly chopped peanuts, for garnish
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Bring a large pot of well-salted water to a boil and cook spaghetti according to package instructions to al dente.
2. While noodles are cooking, make the sauce. In a small bowl, whisk together ½ cup of water with the sugar, Chinese five spice powder, mirin, hoisin sauce, sesame oil, soy sauce and tahini until smooth and sugar is dissolved. Set aside.
3. In a large saute pan or wok over medium-high heat, add the vegetable oil. When shimmering, add the ground pork and cook, using a wooden spoon to break up into pieces, until browned and cooked through. Stir in chile crisp and saute for 2 to 3 minutes until combined. Then add the sauce and stir to combine.
4. Turn heat to medium-low and add the spaghetti directly from the pot (some of the starchy water will help thicken the sauce), along with the scallions. Stir until sauce and noodles are combined and the sauce has thickened.
5. To serve, divide noodles among serving bowls, garnish with scallions and peanuts and serve hot.
Easy, Creamy Tomato Baked Orzo
Orzo, small rice-shaped pasta, is quick cooking and super versatile—I always have a box in my pantry. Tomatoes feature three times here, in the form of cherry tomatoes, tomato paste and sun-dried tomatoes, and are made even more delicious with creamy ricotta and mozzarella. There’s also a dash of soy sauce for a back note of salty umami. The oven does all the work with this recipe—and the result is a dish so comforting you’ll want to eat it with a spoon.
SERVES 6
INGREDIENTS:
3 cups cherry tomatoes
4 garlic cloves, chopped
2 shallots, chopped
¼ cup tomato paste
1 tablespoon soy sauce
Pinch of chile flakes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 pound dry orzo
½ cup chopped sun-dried tomatoes
½ cup ricotta
½ cup chopped fresh basil, plus more leaves for garnish
1½ cups freshly shredded mozzarella
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
INSTRUCTIONS:
1. Preheat the oven to 425 F.
In a 9-by-13-inch baking dish, add cherry tomatoes, garlic, shallots, tomato paste, soy sauce, chile flakes and olive oil and stir to combine. Arrange in a single layer and roast for 15 minutes or until tomatoes are bursting and a touch charred in spots.
2. Lower the heat to 400 F.
3. Remove the baking dish from the oven and stir in the orzo and sun-dried tomatoes. Pour in 2½ cups of warm tap water and stir to combine. Return the baking dish to the oven and bake for 12 to 14 minutes. There should still be some liquid in the baking dish.
4. Remove the baking dish and stir in ¼ cup water with the ricotta and basil. Smooth top and sprinkle mozzarella atop in an even layer. Bake another 10 minutes or until the cheese is melted. If desired, broil for 2 to 3 minutes to brown the top. Garnish with basil leaves and serve.
For more recipes, and to preorder Peter Som’s upcoming cookbook, Family Style: Elegant Everyday Recipes Inspired by Home and Heritage, go to petersom.com.