By Cristina Cuomo
PURIST: Since 2013, you have gifted us with your specialty New American cuisine at East Hampton’s 1770 House, with a hint of Asian and French influences. What is your favorite style of food to cook?
Michael Rozzi: I am very lucky to have artistic freedom with the menu at The 1770 House. I enjoy cooking on the fly and in the moment. Whatever looks or sounds good, inspiration from the market or a conversation with a purveyor. I never try to authenticate traditional cuisines. Rather, I respect them through personal interpretation based on my 30 years in the industry.
What cuisine has influenced you the most?
My early inspiration came from the simple, local food cooked by my family. At a young age, I was made aware of how special the local food sources are. Classic European cuisine played a large part in the foundations of my cooking philosophy. These days it continues to evolve, as do new techniques along with the ebb and flow of popular food trends.
What seasonal favorites will you be incorporating into the harvest-into-winter menu?
We say goodbye to tomatoes, corn, melons and delicate greens. We welcome pumpkin, apples, Brussels sprouts and hearty squash. I always work from a template of seasonally available food items, but not a repertoire per se. I use seasonal ingredients in conjunction with preparations that I believe are interesting and different. I like to improve and elaborate on what I know works.
How do you address the seasonality of where we live and the maritime climate on the menu?
This is important. We need to understand that our local climate doesn’t run consistently with “cookbook” calendars. Being so close to the ocean delays our food seasons. It forces us to be patient. We have to hang on to the outgoing season in anticipation of a later harvest.
What are some expert cooking tips you can share?
Own a good and serrated paring knife. Keep your oven temperature well calibrated. Have a solid egg pan and use it for eggs only. Use more salt. Always have a good glass of wine while you’re cooking.
What is a great winter roast you like to make?
I love whole-roast cooking. Rustic as it may seem, it requires experience and technique that are truly reflected in the outcome. It is definitely satisfying to slice open a perfect bone-in prime rib to find you’ve absolutely nailed it. It is a wonderfully visual experience. Whole-cut cooking provides the juiciest and most flavorful results.
What is your favorite thing to make?
This is a full-circle answer. It would have to be a cheese omelet for my beautiful daughter. Three eggs, no corners cut, cooked in extra-virgin olive oil. A lot of passion goes into good, simple food, especially when it’s for life’s most important people.
For me, ingredients are everything. Do you cook with organic foods and locally sourced bounty?
Thoughtful and ethically sourced foods are the foundation of a responsible culinary ethos. Not many professions involve preparing something for other people to nourish themselves. It’s a direct connection to their health and well-being. I make an enthusiastic effort to be connected to the food that I cook. I work with the local farmers, fishermen and other purveyors. It’s important to me to believe I’m doing the right thing by serving it. It’s an extra step, but that’s what separates the extraordinary from the mainstream. 1770house.com
RECIPE
Roasted Montauk sea scallop with coconut masala, charred cabbage, mushroom, corn with coriander and orange by Michael Rozzi, executive chef at East Hampton’s The 1770 House
SERVES 4
PREP TIME 30 MINUTES
INGREDIENTS:
4 extra-large sea scallops, preferably U/10. Pat dry on paper towels and set aside.
For the Coconut Masala:
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped ginger
1 teaspoon chopped garlic
½ cup chopped red onion
1 tablespoon fish sauce
1 tablespoon mirin
2 teaspoons garam masala
1 tablespoon fresh-squeezed orange juice (reserve zest for garnish)
2 cups coconut milk
2 tablespoons butter
Salt, to taste
Sea salt, for garnish
For the Saute:
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup cleaned maitake mushrooms (shiitake are fine too)
1 cup sweet corn kernels
1 cup chopped bok choy
1/4 cup chopped or micro coriander (set aside for garnish)
INSTRUCTIONS:
For the Coconut Masala: In a heavy saucepot, heat the oil. Add the ginger, garlic and onion; sweat until translucent. Add all remaining ingredients except the salt and butter, and simmer on low until well combined, about 10 minutes. Season with salt to taste. Add the butter and blend well with an immersion blender until frothy and smooth. Set aside.
For the Saute:
In a heavy saute pan, heat the oil. Season scallops with salt and place them, large side down, in the pan, searing them until slightly golden, 1-2 minutes. Turn over and repeat on the other side. Remove from pan to a side plate. Add the mushrooms, corn and bok choy to the same pan. Allow everything to char gently without burning and scorching the pan. (I suggest just medium heat and some extra time.) Set aside once everything is cooked.
For Serving:
In four shallow bowls, evenly divide the vegetable mixture. Spoon the coconut masala around the vegetables and place a scallop on top. Spoon a bit more coconut masala over each scallop. Garnish with reserved orange zest, some sea salt and the coriander.