Eat Here Now

“A movable feast” takes on new meaning as East End eateries play musical chairs—and diners can’t wait to secure their seats.
Photo: iStock by Getty Images

By Ray Rogers and Julia Szabo

Regulars of Bostwick’s Seafood Grill in East Hampton lamented losing the glorious harbor view when, after 15 successful years, the establishment up and moved to Route 27, rebranding as Bostwick’s Chowder House. But now, the eatery is set to open its second location, Bostwick’s on the Harbor—in its original waterside home. Look for raw-bar items such as clams, oysters, and tuna crudo, plus garlicky mussels and fluke Milanese. “We weren’t planning to open a second Bostwick’s,” admits co-owner Kevin Boles, “but when the opportunity came to return to this special spot, it was too good to pass up. There are many memories at this location for both myself and my partner Chris, who began his culinary career there, when it was Little Rock Lobster.” 39 Gann Rd., East Hampton, 631.324.1150

As for Bay Kitchen Bar, the beloved restaurant that formerly occupied the old/new Bostwick’s spot, the BKB team is taking over the shuttered Princess Diner location on 27. Now renamed the Silver Lining Diner, it’s a showcase for Chef Eric Miller’s couture comfort cuisine: local seafood and fresh-squeezed juices alongside pancakes, eggs and burgers. Patrons can sit, stay, and turn four-footed friends loose in the dog run—an ingenious amenity that makes this place the perfect pit stop for commuters from NYC. 32 Montauk Hwy., Southampton, 631.901.1800

Another widely lamented spot is the late, great Cyril’s Fish House on the Napeague stretch between Montauk and Amagansett, home of the famed BBC (Bailey’s Banana Colada). Rising in its place is Morty’s Oyster Stand, serving coastal cuisine with sustainable seafood and East Coast oysters. It’s helmed by Chef Sam Talbot, alum of Top Chef and The Surf Lodge, along with Jeremy Morton, Jack Luber and hospitality veteran Charles Seich. In addition to Wellfleets and Pemaquids, the menu offers fresh fish en papillote, or grilled local squid with zucchini, macadamia pesto, and pineapple-serrano vinegar. And yes, the star of the beverage menu is still everyone’s favorite Bailey’s Banana Colada, back and more addictive than ever. 2167 Montauk Hwy.

Chef Sam Talbot will helm Morty’s Oyster Stand. Photo: iStock by Getty Images

Undergoing an Italian renaissance, the former Michael’s Restaurant in East Hampton’s Springs is now Bel Mare Ristorante. Owner Rich Gherardi installed Chef Luigi Del Conte in the cucina, turning out to-die-for brick oven pizzas ranging from classic Margherita (with fresh mozzarella) to Funghi (sautéed portabellas, button, and shiitakes with truffle oil and mozzarella) plus anelli, a pizza crust folded so the toppings become a filling; the chicken and cranberry anelli features sun-dried cranberries, spinach, roasted corn, fontina cheese, and grilled chicken. Fall in love with the chef’s line of artisanal sauces, and bring some home: Take your pick from giftable glass jars of marinara, vodka, or the more exotic Simmering Sauces (in two flavors, Caribbeano and Sambuca). 28 Maidstone Park Rd., East Hampton

Sag Harbor’s Bay Burger has closed, replaced by Ed’s Lobster Bar East, a Hamptons outpost of the NYC seafood restaurant known for, among other delicacies, chef/owner Ed McFarland’s lobster rolls, lobster quiche, lobster Benedict and lobster pizza. 1742 Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Tpke., Sag Harbor

The former Honest Diner—next to the famed taqueria La Fondita in Amagansett—has morphed into Coche Comedor, a Mex mecca that’s as virtuous as it is flavorful. “Our menu is fresh and light, and not your typical Tex-Mex restaurant menu,” says Executive Chef Joseph Realmuto, who uses local and seasonal ingredients to create regional, authentic Mexican food. Artery-clogging queso and crema are prohibited here; indulge instead in seafood cooked on the grill or plancha, served with spinach, asparagus, peppers and cilantro from the restaurant’s own garden, plus heavenly housemade salsas and irresistible mole. “We will try to use as much locally sourced seafood as possible,” Realmuto promises. “Our ceviche will be made of locally sourced clams, bass and scallops.” 74 Montauk Hwy., Amagansett

Mexican food: you’ve tasted it all before, right? Defying expectations, Sag Harbor’s K Pasa promises its own singular spin, including a radical reinvention of everyone’s favorite avocado dip: a trade-secret, ‘cado-free appetizer aptly named “Not Guac.” Occupying the space that for 21 years was La Superica, K Pasa is co-owned by brothers Jesse and Tora Matsuoka, the duo behind Sen, Sag’s modern Japanese. 2 Main St., Sag Harbor, 631-800-TACO

EMP Summer House, Eleven Madison Park’s East End pied-à-terre, has closed after two years. By early June, another well-heeled Madison Avenue cantina will occupy the East Hampton house that EMP vacated: Paola’s. Executive Chef Paola Bottero and her son and partner, Stefano Marracino, promise to be “as organic as possible,” with a selection of organic wine plus eggs, milk and apples from their own Woodstock farm, and salad greens from a favorite farm in Fishkill. Look for the popular Carciofi Alla Judea (marinated baby artichokes, pan-seared in olive oil) and find those Upstate apples in the heavenly homemade apple tart. 341 Pantigo Rd., East Hampton

Even more intoxicating than the artfully mixed cocktails is the splendid view of the Montauk Marina from the windows of Showfish bar, built into the base of the lighthouse at Gurney’s Star Island Resort and Marina. Go ahead, indulge—then chase your cocktail with a detoxifying cryotherapy massage at the Gurney’s seawater spa. 32 Star Island Rd., Montauk, 631.668.2345