By Ali Margo
There’s a saying in Aspen that the billionaires pushed the millionaires down valley to the small towns along the Roaring Fork River that include Basalt, Carbondale and Glenwood Springs, which offer community, charm and plenty of free parking. With that exodus came a burgeoning scene of new, upscale restaurants, hotels, shops and spas that rival what you might find in Aspen, but at a fraction of the price. This summer, follow the river down valley for a little field trip and discover your flow.
Glenwood Springs is perhaps best known for its hot springs, but now a centuries-old tradition is new again at the Bohemian Bier Spa (bohemianbeerspa.com). Dasha Balasova (who has owned the Black Nugget in Carbondale since 2012) brings a unique beer bath experience from the region of Bohemia (not to be confused with the style of clothing worn at Coachella) to the Roaring Fork Valley. The furthest thing from a boozy-hippie dip, the modern, elegant and private spa is housed in an extensively renovated 140-year-old building in historic downtown Glenwood Springs. Eight private 90-minute therapy rooms feature handmade European oak tubs prepared with a combination of hops, barley and brewer’s yeast for an aromatic soak infused with vitamins and antioxidants. Each space has a rainfall shower and infrared sauna with an 11-light chromotherapy spectrum. To round out the spa experience, there’s also beer, of course—available on tap from Eagle River Brewing Company—along with a selection of wine, prosecco and a charcuterie platter.
Make a night of it at Hotel Maxwell Anderson (maxwellandersonhotel.com), a century-old landmark with a recent $5 million upgrade. Formerly Hotel Denver (a moniker that only served to confuse people), old meets new in the 90-room boutique hotel where history, charm and modern luxury capture the evolution of downtown Glenwood.
Witness the burgeoning scene in Carbondale, where Aspen restaurant veterans relocated down valley for a more community-centric vibe. At Amara Kitchen and Wine Bar (amaracarbondale.com), owners Maria J Cardenas (a longtime Aspen sommelier and wine director) and her husband, Ricardo Leyvas (formerly in management at The Little Nell), dish up Mediterranean fare like Spanish-style caviar, swordfish souvlaki and tomato fatoush in an intimate, personal space.
A few blocks away, housed in a historic Main Street building, is Sprazzo (sprazzocarbondale.com), where Chester White created an Italian-inspired menu including masterfully handmade pastas from chef Daniel Leon and a wine list curated by longtime local Rodrigo Ramirez. Classic dishes like bucatini carbonara, tonnarelli cacio e pepe, and porchetta suggest that even in this remote little mountain town, all roads lead to Rome.
For a more casual dining experience that doesn’t compromise on quality or variety, check out the lively, small-town vitality at Townline Trucks (townlinetrucks.com). The brainchild of longtime valley locals Rich and Kat Camp and Terrance McGuire (former owner of the legendary Aspen deli Johnny McGuire’s), a 100-year-old miner’s shack was converted into a bar and patio to host a convergence of rotating food trucks. Here, Colorado casual meets elevated eats, with live music four nights a week on the outdoor stage, and yard games.
After a night on the town, plan a day of recovery at True Nature Healing Arts (truenaturehealingarts.com), a wellness oasis hidden just off the Rio Grande Trail recreation biking and hiking path. This expansive sanctuary, co-founded by Deva and Eaden Shantay, offers cosmic slow flow yoga, a holistic spa housed in a modern-day kiva, a socially conscious gift boutique and an organic cafe.
On the way back to Aspen, swing by Trove (52 Pottery Lane, El Jebel; 970.366.5611; IG: @trove_antiques_and_interiors) to browse a mix of new, vintage, antique and consigned home furnishings curated by local owner Elizabeth Muxworthy. This off-the-beaten-path boutique celebrates the American West with a focus on local artists and craftsmen, including the largest showing of work by Aspen photographer Norm Clasen and the images made famous by his work on the iconic Marlboro Man campaign.
Make it a weekend and stay at The Hoffmann Hotel (30 Kodiak Drive, Basalt; 970.340.8000), a 122-room boutique hotel (part of the Tapestry by Hilton Collection) in the mid valley where owner and part-time-local Jeff Blackman created a community space for locals to connect, as well as for visitors and their families. Its restaurant, The Hoffmann House, became an instant favorite, with outdoor seating overlooking Kodiak Lake. Located across from Whole Foods Market and with easy access to both Aspen and Glenwood on the bus route, the mid valley is a worthy destination in its own right.